Le Modiste: Pet en l'air in the works

In the spirit of continuing to learn how to drape and work a gown by hand, I have begun another project worth sharing.  During the past holidays I began working with my sewing mentor Cynthia on draping and putting together a pet en l'air bodice and skirt.  This is an earlier fashion of the 18th century which I never thought I would wear as I am partial to the 1780's-1790's.  But, as I would like to make a Brunswick outfit in the near future and there is an 18th century dinner event coming up in February, I thought I would go with it and continue to build my hand sewing skills via the pet en l'air.  My inspiration has been:

Pet-en-l’air jacket ca. 1780-1790 via Manchester City Galleries

Listed as a Caraco, 1775.  The petticoat is 1720- Kyoto Museum

Victoria and Albert Museum collection

Caraco jacket, LACMA, c. 1760 (altered 1780)

Though a couple of these images are listed as Caraco's, the trimmings and shape are similar to the pet en l'air.  Like many fashion trends over the centuries, different countries and cultures adapted fashion styles and gave them different names.  So, often times you can look up pet en l'air and you will get images of caraco's and casaquin as well.

I was down in Los Angeles, California in November and a friend of mine took me to the 'Garment District'.  This fantastic place of store after store of wholesale and retail fabric and trims is an overwhelming but fun place to get fabric at good prices and quality stuffs.  I live in the north of California where we don't have access to such a wealth of resources for sewing other than online shopping which is just not as satisfying as spending hours feeling-up textiles and trims!  Anyway, I was overwhelmed and couldn't decide what I wanted to buy for the pet en l'air and eventually the Brunswick, too.  So, I took swatches - yes, they give you hunks of swatches for the asking - and took them home to make my decision.  So, I decided on a beautiful deep, slate blue silk taffeta and a grey embroidered taffeta.  I am grateful to my friend who was willing to brave the drive to downtown LA and get the fabric for me and mail it up to me in record time! Take a look...

The blue taffeta to the left - it is a beautiful midnight blue - probably shot with black to give it its rich hue  - which I am told may not be very 'period' for 1770's.  The right piece is the embroidered grey.

Close up of the embroidered grey.  This looks blue but it is a nice pale pewter grey.

The blue taffeta is a dream to work on but the raw edges fray if you look at it.  The embroidered taffeta is beautiful, has a lot of body (stiff where the embroidery is heaviest) and that complicates working with it by hand but is still doable.  The embroidery is like tambour work and stiffens the fabric under it.  However, both fabrics together is a really nice combination.

I had to purchase hip buckets - again, this is not a period I usually do, so, that was an additional item I had to get to make this work.  Where did I get them?  I got them from Smiling Fox Forge. Yes, I could have totally made them but I didn't have the time since the dress is needed for the 1st weekend in February.  

At this point, I am trying to decide on the trimmings.  Again, I am running out of time...I hate sewing under pressure...but I can make simple trimmings to make do for the event then upgrade later.  

Any suggestions from you all as to the type of decorative trimmings I should use for the stomacher, robings and bodice skirt hem? Yes, I have my inspirations that I shared with you but there are other options that might be fun to have.  Send me links and ideas - I would totally love it!

Next Post:  Updates on the Pet en l'air and/or a 1930's day dress.

http://www.smilingfoxforgellc.com/  A great resource for re-enactors, esp.  18th century.

Le Modiste: Finally! My Enfourreau is done!

Hello everyone!  Last fall I started working on an en fourreau or English back gown.  The gown was draped and worked entirely by hand.  Laugh-ou-loud - a friend of mine calls this my vegan dress since a machine was not used.   I got to wear it to an event last Saturday and I have to say that I think I did a pretty good job.  Whoa, was I being a little immodest here?  Yep!  :)  I am really proud of this little ensemble.  I am sorry I don't have more pictures,  but the next time I wear it I will certainly make sure that I get more detailed shots.  Oh, notice the shoes!  I got my period mules from Burnley and Trowbridge (link will be provided below).  The mules are soooooooo comfortable and beautifully made.

Next post:  1930's day dress

http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/  They are an excellent family owned business that provides period sewing supplies, garments and other items to support historical re-enactment.  They mostly focus on 18th century.  Check them out!

Holiday Tea at the Palace

On December 29th, 2012 I attended a holiday tea at the Palace Hotel in San Francisco.  It was part of the Greater Bay Area Costume Guild calendared events.  (See links below).   I was able to adjust a 1883 bustle I made ages ago and wore only once.  I love the early 80's bustle period and this worked out for the event. So, without further ado, Here are some photos of the event:

My dearest friend, as Lady Astor - our hostess at the event.

From the French Room the view of the Tea Room.  This area of the hotel originally was the carriage drive through for patrons.  After the 1906 earthquake it was rebuilt and enclosed to be a space for entertaining.

http://gbacg.org/
http://www.sfpalace.com/?PS=PS_aa_WWC_WestWestCanada_Google_BD_palace_hotel_san_francisco_Exact_092010_NAD_FM

Happy New Year!

I want to wish all my readers a wonderful and happy 2013!

2012 is nearly done.  Here in California, we have about 14 more hours of this past year to enjoy even as I write.  The anticipation of a new year is often a joyous romp of wishes and resolutions and to-do lists.  With the best intentions I plan to get rid of those UFO's (unfinished objects) out of boxes, off shelves and either put to use or moved on to someone else. How about you?  My goal is to make room for those newer projects that have flitted into my head and flutter with great urgency in the cocoon of my thoughts.  But, let me not wax poetic and share some of my hopes and to-dos:

1.  Simplify, simplify, SIMPLIFY! (I am making progress in simplifying my lifestyle so I can enjoy life rather than live it in spectator mode).

2.  Do something creative everyday!

3.  With all the trouble in our world, continue to be a positive and supportive source of light and hope.

Three simple things to do, I think I can manage this.  :)

On the 'New' sewing front here are my plans:

1.  Pet en l'air (just started that, actually)

2.  Brunswick

3.  Victorian corset 

4.  A Tissot era bustle dress

5.  A few nice 50's style dresses for regular wear.

UFO's:

1.  Renaissance corset I started a while ago.

2.  Tudor Shift I started but got stuck on the embroidered pattern which I think I worked out now.

3.  Pair of 18th century cloth mitts

4.  I have a couple of Art Deco outfits that I started but didn't finish.

Phew!  That's a lot to start with and the plan is to get going on them without an event in mind so that I am not sewing before an event.  I really don't like working under pressure.  Do you?  I know some folk do but I don't.  It is such a great feeling to have an event to go to and all you have to do is pull out something from the wardrobe.  That is bliss...until I get that urge - "I can't be seen in that again?"  Alas, do I really need an excuse to make yet another historical garment?  No, of course not.  I have a sewing machine, ergo anything is possible!

In any case, best wishes in the new year and I hope that you will have a prosperous and joyful year.   As Audrey Hepburn says: Nothing is impossible, the word itself says 'I'm possible'! 

Happy New year!

Joyeux Noel! Feliz Navidad! Happy Christmas!

Dearest friends, I want to wish you a happy holiday!  How ever you celebrate this winter season, enjoy!  Best wishes in the new year.  I hope that 2013 will be a happy, joyful and prosperous year for you all.

Collage 2012 ag

Le Modiste: En Fourreau Part 3

Although I have not posted in a while, I have not been idle.  The work on the Polonaise En Fourreau is continuing and I am nearly there.  I know that not everyone likes to do 'hand sewing' and it can be tedious at times but when 'chunked' into a manageable timeframe it is doable.  Firstly, I have no deadline on this dress so that removed a lot of pressure to be done by a certain time.  Secondly, I decided it was a learning experience and I would just take my time. Thirdly, I do love hand sewing! With that said, it was totally fun working with two friends - one doing the coaching and the other also learning to drape a gown in situ.

Let's see where did I leave off? Ah!  I was sewing down pleats and getting ready to put in the sleeves.  Well, let's take a look the next steps I was able to get done in the process:

Fashion fabric and lining.

Right sides together the fashion fabric and one side of the lining are pinned and sewn together.

The lining not sewn into the previous seam is pinned to sandwich the raw edges inside b/w the fashion fabric and the lining.

Lining is whipped down.

The sleeve edges (FF and L) are turned in and whipped down.

Sleeve ready for setting.

Bodice with pleats done ready to be pleated to skirt.

Now before I set in the sleeve I also had to attach the skirt fronts to the skirt back.  Remember the skirt back is a part of the bodice.  I left slits at the top of the seams to allow for access to my pockets.  The skirt side back to front was pleated into the bodice and the bodice lining was placed over the pleats to sandwich the raw edges inside.

Skirt pleated on to the bodice and lining folded and pinned in place

From the outside prior to sewing.

There was since of accomplishment when I put on my corset and my friends helped me into my dress, albeit not done but looking like a real dress!  It was so cool!  Yes, I have made gowns before but this was different, just different - hard to describe if you haven't made a dress without a pattern and all by hand.  This is not for everyone of course, but if you ever get a chance to do it, go for it!

Next Steps - The shoulder straps to be pinned and sewn in place in situ.  This will be followed up with pinning the sleeves on while the dress is on the body prior to sewing on to the bodice.  Once that is done, I will need to finish the back neck edge, hem the skirt and then begin to make the matching petticoat.  Almost there!  :)

Le Modiste: En Fourreau Part 2

Hello!  I  have been making progress on the Polonaise en fourreau.  What I am working on now is the back piece.  The back is one piece of fabric that starts with a dart from the neck to waist (1/4" to 2") then pleated while on the body to create the shaped 'V' and then the inverted pleat at the 'tail-bone'.  This was done with the fashion fabric.  The lining is a rectangle cut the length of neck to waist and darted just the same but not pleated.

The lining is folded and darted.  It is then attached to the fashion fabric which is darted then pleated and pinned in place.

The pinned pleats - I ironed them to help me keep it even.

Detail of pleats pinned.

Sewing through all layers I am using a Mantua stitch. I think mine are too close and tight. Not sure.

When you are done the inside looks like this.

Detail:  The stitches.

I am using linen thread.  It is thicker than regular modern cotton covered poly threads we have now.  This was borrowed from a friend till I can order what I need from Burnley and Trowbridge.
http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/


Next up:  Finish stitching down the pleats, then cut and put the sleeves together.  The sleeves were draped on my arm - using an extra piece of lining fabric and I will use it as a pattern.